Learned the Neighborhood; Leaving Tomorrow

After two weeks, I have finally managed to find my way around the neighborhood, just in time to leave. The past two days, I spent visiting two sites in Le Marais because since they're so close, I've been embarrassed that I haven't been to them.

Yesterday, I had to wait for a houseguest to arrive. One of the actor's girlfriends, Michelle, had made her plane reservation before the actors knew they would be in St. Die (close to Nancy)for two days. I agreed to host her. She came in jet-lagged so I told her to take a nap while I walked to Place des Vosges, the oldest (1605) planned square in Paris which became the model for the others. On the way, I passed by the theater but had forgotten there is always a week-end flea market. They say antique market, but there's a lot of junk. It was slow-going so I knew I couldn't return by that route.  I went to the square which was hopping with bikers and families. I did not go to Victor Hugo's house. I figured he wasn't in.

Place de Vosges

Then, I planned my route home but got distracted by shops and a creperie. Even though I know better, I always expect to find a creperie on every corner in Paris but since they aren't everywhere, I had to stop for a banana crepe and coffee. Then I made that mistake where I go into a store, come out, and turn the wrong way. Luckily, this apartment has a great map book that I carry everywhere so I was fine.

When I got back for my nap, Michelle decided to walk around a little. She ran into a street protest and got some of it on film. It was a pro-Palestinian march, complete with one float, flags, and marchers. Just a peaceful march but led by police cars and followed by police in riot gear. According to the actors' French "handler," there are many of those protests throughout the city on weekends.

Then I made  Michelle go to fancy dinner with me because I had found out about this highly-rated restaurant that's very close and hadn't yet eaten there and of course, it's not open on Sunday. I had the best foie gras I've had in Paris, followed by lamb chops with mashed potatoes and sauteed peppers. It's rare to get vegetables with many meals here; more often, you just get a salad. 

Today, on my quest to see (someday) the top 10 churches of Paris, I walked to St. Eustache, another 15 minute walk. This one made 5 for me. There are only 2 streets so I did that trip with little difficulty except for having to make sure where the streets continued when I got to a corner. Usually, "go straight" on the same street means the street will continue to the right or left across one of those "places." This church is right by the Forum des Halles which is the shopping center that was created when the real Les Halles was torn down. Hardly anything was open there but there is a cinema inside. I think most people were in the Forum because there's a Metro stop there.

Sainte Eustache

There is no charge to get into the church and only a few visitors today. Definitely the tallest vault I've ever seen (109 feet). Beautiful stained glass from 1632. The church was built over a 100-year period from the mid-1500s.

Sculpture outside Forum des Halles

So that's it for me.  I'm flying out tomorrow morning. I checked that same flight today and it was over an hour late leaving but I hope it will be on time tomorrow.

Back to the Eiffel Tower

On this trip, I decided to go to the other side of the Eiffel Tower, Trocadero. It's a long metro ride from where I am, about 11 stops. But I do better on subway systems than on streets, especially in these cities where streets just change names for no reason or go off in another direction. Also, there's just too many "places" here, those circular traffic areas with statues in the middle. Once all the streets converge at one of those places, they can resume in any direction.  It's confusing.

One of those Pesky Places--this one's Republique

On the way, I got a seat on the Metro right away. The trains going to the Eiffel Tower are old--no lights to tell you which stop you're going to and no announcements. This line had the "Franklin Roosevelt" stop which Lola said she would never ride on again since how they say "Franklin Roosevelt" is unintelligible; but she could have gone since they didn't say it at all.  Getting out of the Eiffel Tower stop is easy with an escalator and sign that says "Eiffel Tower."

Eiffel Tower from Trocadero

My first (and probably last) selfie; turns out
it's all about me, not that Tower

After wandering around for awhile, I decided to go to the Palais de Tokyo since I had never been there and it's just a short walk on Avenue du President Wilson. That street is right across from the Eiffel Tower; at the place, of course, it continues on the other side of the street. Still, it was fairly easy to find.

The art is ultra-modern in this museum. Currently, there's an exhibit called "Inside" which promises to take you inside the art. You walk through room by room, not knowing how many rooms they'll be. It was a little creepy because I didn't know how anyone could get out if they decided they didn't like the exhibit. There were lots of different types of art and also film installations. Inside the rooms where the films were playing were two kinds of floors--some had concrete floors which I could see and some had black floors which I couldn't see. There were a few chairs in each room. I experienced a new "old age" phenomenon of being afraid to walk across the black floor because I couldn't see if the floor was flat or there were steps. I tried to let my eyes adjust but they never did...so I just followed in another person's footsteps. It occurred to me that it was unlikely that I'd fall into an abyss...but you can't be sure.

 To the left is one of the art installations. You think it represents urban decay but it really represents urban decay AND renewal.

One of the interesting displays--these
white figures are based on the images
mental patients drew when asked to draw
a tree (I read that in English)

At one point walking through the maze of rooms, you round a corner and are confronted with a strobe light which, as we all know, can cause a grand mal seizure. No warning, no nothing. It occurred to me that anyone so afflicted would be stuck there, since it was almost impossible to retrace your steps.

After I finished my tour and I will say, there was a lot I liked in that exhibit, I overheard a great conversation between a nice-looking, young American and a museum attendant. As a preface, in Nicole's theater group is a man from Bosnia who immigrated to the US after years in Germany. He speaks about 5 languages. He is always complaining that all the French can speak some English; they're just stubborn when they don't. I have noticed that a little but it has never bothered me. Here's the conversation:

Young American:  Do you speak English?
Museum Dude:  No.
YA, somewhat sarcastically:  What? You work in a museum. Aren't you trying to promote tourism?
MD: It is a choice.
After YA started to walk off in a huff,  Museum Dude got out of his chair and asked him what he wanted and helped him find the rest of the museum. He seemed apologetic, unlike the Museum Dude I talked to in the Pompidou.

I've noticed that the restaurants and touristy stores seem to hire young people who speak a little in several languages while the museums seem staffed with older French guys who just don't want to try. It doesn't bother me since I rarely try my limited French. But, in YA's defense, I will say, if you don't want to cater to English speakers, why are all exhibits and tourist places explained in both French and English?

On the way to that museum, I realized I had walked to the Metro stop just prior to the Eiffel Tower stop. So I got on there, figuring it wouldn't be as crowded. That turned out to be wrong. I didn't get a seat for about 5 stops. The romance of riding the Metro wore off after the first day here but as I sat on that train for 20 minutes, I appreciated how really quick and efficient it is and for me, much less confusing than walking and reading a map.

Happy Thanksgiving

It doesn't seem these French care about Thanksgiving. I made Nicole go to lunch at a closeby restaurant. It was ok; not great. We started with oysters:

No, we are not with those people who ordered what you should order at an Alsatian restaurant--sauerkraut and sausages.

I found out that just a block from this apartment is a famous French restaurant. The Clintons ate here; Brad and Angelina, and other assorted Hollywood celebs.

It might not look fancy from the outside but looking in the window, you can see how ritzy it is. There is nothing on the menu under 60 euros; even the appetizer foie gras is 60 euro. If you look it up, you will see that Americans love to go there and have the 100 euro chicken, the specialty of the house, and then say either it's terrific or that they could make better chicken themselves. They also say you might see a famous American there because Americans are the only people who eat there. I am not planning to go.

I just went to the boulangerie to get a sandwich. I got one and some macarons, agreed with whatever the woman was saying to me and left. Walking down the street, I looked in the bag. No sandwich. I guess she had asked me whether I wanted it hot and it still wasn't ready when I went back in. But now I have it--it's just like leftover turkey except, of course, this is ham and cheese.

Late Nights and Museums

All this staying out late with Nicole and drinking heavily (for me, that means TWO glasses of wine) is making my sightseeing begin later and later.  

Yesterday, I went to the newly renovated Picasso Museum. It's within walking distance, so with the help of Nicole's iphone instructions, I walked there. To be most efficient, you should use a million little streets, but I chose the larger ones and figured then I'd see signs. I did and got there with no problem. The line outside was huge but I figured I should go since I had managed to find it. The wait was about a half hour.

Line at the Picasso; the museum is not in the picture;
it's just a small portion of this complex

 The museum is small so they limit how many people enter. I understood what the reviewers who don't like it were saying about the renovation. You're almost forced to go in the order they want you to--about 10 small rooms, go up a floor, 10 more small rooms, repeat for four floors. The smart thing would be to try to get the elevator (unlikely) and work your way back down. There are over 400 works of Picasso in this museum, arranged in chronological order,  so if you like Picasso, it's the place to be. Limiting entry seems like a good idea because it didn't feel crowded. There were lots of tourists but no Asian tour groups. Also, since it just reopened in October, a lot of French people were there.

Picasso's Notre Dame

On the way home, I did that thing where I see the street I want but don't know which way to turn on it. Luckily, I carry two maps. Let's just say, I took the long way home. I never care too much--I just say "I'm walking in Paris."

Last night, I met up with a young lady I taught with in Poland in 2007 and her husband for dinner and to see the play. The husband is from Paris and my friend is from St. Louis. She is working on two Ph.D.s at once--one here in Paris and one at Northwestern in Chicago. They just moved back here after two years in Chicago. We ate dinner at the restaurant at the theatre. I asked them to meet me at 6:15 but of course, the restaurant doesn't start serving until 7. The food was excellent and they did get us out by 8 in time for the show. My friends loved the show. Lucky for them, I have connections and got us all free tickets because the cost is 28 Euros. It's not so much in the suburbs and small towns but then, this is Paris.

I still do not understand when these French people eat. That restaurant's website says they serve food all the time. By that they mean they don't. I've gathered that dinner begins at 7 but I'm still unclear about lunch. I'm guessing noon until 2 because I tried to get late lunch today at 2:45 and no go. I finally ate at a cafe that really does serve all the time. However, I ordered an omelette and I could have waited for chickens to lay the eggs, bought them and made it myself in the time it took for them to serve me.

Last night after the show which, after autographs, ends around 10:30, the actors wanted to get a beer. They found a place but the rule is you can't have drinks that late without someone (just one person) ordering food. The problem is, the kitchen is closed, so what they could order was some bread, cheese, and pate. They were eager to kick everyone out by 12:30. So the city of lights isn't always lit. 

Today I decided to go to the Rodin Museum which was being renovated the last time I was here. Those gardens are beautiful and The Thinker is still there as well as a lot of other sculptures. I was going to add Invalides to this trip but decided against it. However, as I was out in the Rodin garden, I couldn't help noticing it's right across the street.

The Thinker--the large version

Rodin Museum garden; looky there--Invalides

So I went. I was wondering why Napoleon's Tomb is on everyone's "must do" list until I walked into that building. It is magnificent. Then I managed to find the Metro and actually get back home without getting lost. It was a banner day.

One small part of the room that houses Napoleon's tomb

Hanging Out in My 'Hood

Yesterday, I did nothing. It was Sunday and nothing in the hood was open--not the pharmacie, not the Monop' (like a 7/11), not the grocery store Carrefour. What was open was the paint store. There are some stores open on Sunday in various parts of Paris, but not in my immediate neighborhood. Plus, Nicole had to do a sound check at the new theater where they open tonight. It's only a few minutes walk from here. So later, we went out to dinner with a few of the theater folk. I had picked out an oyster bar about a 10 minute walk away. It has excellent reviews and is open until 2:30 every morning. After sitting down, we saw the the price of the oysters was "2,70 Euro/pc. I was sure that didn't mean a piece but the fluent one with us double-checked and it was the real price so we left. It was the warmest day we've had, 61 degrees, so we ate outside at one of the few restaurants that were open. The outside heaters were so hot, we had to take our coats off. We had Croque Madames.

There are two museums I plan to visit in Le Marais--one is the Pompidou and the other the Picasso Museum which just reopened last month. Reviewers tend not to like the layout of the Picasso but I'm going anyway. The problem with Paris museums is that they're all closed on a different day. The Picasso is closed today so I went to the Pompidou. I like the Pompidou because there is only one set of stairs to walk up; there are escalators running through tubes for the rest of the museum. Great views of the city as you ride them.

One side of the massive Pompidou

The Pompidou is less than a 15 minute walk from where I am. But it takes much longer when you turn the wrong way on the street and yes, I did that both going and coming back. In both cases, I realized my error fairly quickly, so it added only a few miles to my walk. The problem with my navigating skills is that I can never figure out how I ended up on the wrong street. Luckily, I am carrying two maps or I'd still be somewhere in Paris trying to find my way home.

The special exhibits now are Duchamps and Frank Gehry. Jeff Koons' exhibit is opening in two days but I am glad to miss it. No tour group was standing in front of moustached Mona Lisa. The highlight for me of this museum is going to the top to the sculpture gardens outside. The sculptures are interesting and you have the best views of Paris, both for viewing and picture-taking. There's about 5 gardens. When I got up there, I noticed a chain on the first door. Naturally, I checked all the gardens and sure enough, no entry.  The restaurant at the top is open air but it doesn't have good views of the city.

The Other Mona Lisa

I was so angry, I decided to try to communicate with one of the people verifying tickets. He told me the only view was from the restaurant but couldn't communicate why the garden doors were locked. 

The "scuplture" at the restaurant at the top of the museum.

When I went downstairs to leave, I tried again. This French dude was really rude. He "pffted" and said they are open only in the summer. I didn't point out that it is 60 degrees. At least the other guy said "sorry."

Now I'm off to watch the Trapdoor folks open in Paris...if I can find the theatre again.

Resting in Paris

Yesterday, I went to Herblay, a small town outside of Paris, where Nicole and the other actors are living at the theater. Even though they have only one performance there, they are being housed for the duration of the Paris run. The trip is like going to any of the suburbs; a metro ride and a train. I did that successfully all by myself, without Lola. Well, there was the part where I accidentally went out of the station instead of going from the metro to the train section but luckily, I just walked back in. 

 They had an audience of about 150 people, including a high school group. High school groups come to every performance because this play is an adaptation of Camus' "Les Justes" and they all have to read it.
The play is about a group of revolutionaries who also have a rock band so there's some singing and rocking out. The play is based on a true story but I don't think the original revolutionaries had a rock band. Nicole is fantastic in this play; I put it in her top 3 shows ever. She plays two characters and the first move of the second character is her falling on stage. Unfortunately last night, she did it a tad too hard and has skinned her knee. It looks bad.

The high school kids sat in front and there were a few who were obnoxious, playing on their phones, laughing inappropriately. I was in the middle of the audience and didn't really notice anything but the actors were annoyed. Afterwards, the kids stayed around, asking for autographs and asking questions about acting. They are especially enamored with the youngest band member; they told him he has "swag."

Before the performance, I went to one of the town's 3 restaurants, Le Creperie and had a crepe with duck, potatoes, and cheese. It was great. They open at 7 and I got there early. As I was sitting there, I think the entire town came in for dinner, including two dogs. Dogs are fine in restaurants there but you can't wear a hat. You will be yelled at if you don't take it off as you enter the restaurant.

After the play, we went to a bar. The owner and his wife came to the show and he asked everyone to come for champagne. We drank beer instead but the owners were very nice. When someone asked the younger business partner why his English is so good, he said "I grew up in South Carolina," with the accent to match the words. He is French but his father traveled around for business so he was in South Carolina until he was 10.

Today we came back to Paris, bought some groceries and just rested because Nicole begins rehearsals here tomorrow. It's a total coincidence that I rented an apartment 5 minutes from this theater. But they're doing the show just a couple of times, going to a town 3 hours away for two days and then coming back. Unfortunately, I'll be coming home so Nicole won't have this convenient apartment.

Lola's Last Day

and she made me walk the entire Champs Elysees. Seriously; from the Arc de Triomphe all the way to Concorde. That was not the plan, but the Christmas market has opened. The Christmas market is hundreds of booths on both sides of the street for maybe a half mile. They have even added restaurants. Everything is for sale there. Including crepes which we indulged in.

That Arc